RE: Blue-Black Cyanotype & Luster

From: D. Mark Andrews ^lt;[email protected]>
Date: 10/04/05-07:53:56 AM Z
Message-id: <>

I have to admit that I primarily do wet plate work, but have taken a short
brake to work on some cyanotypes for open studios later this month. In the
past I double coated regularly, but recently I switched to a single coat
using a solution of 2 pts A + 1 pt B--very happy with the results. I also
coat with the a watercolor brush that Kerik turned me onto (the "magic
brush") which works the solution into the paper without abrading it.

The Polyshield Gloss sounds fascinating. I may have to get a sample and give
it a go.

I only have potentially inflammatory things to say about the New Cyanotype
solution so let me be nice and simply say that I would rather lose a limb
then use it again. I like being able to pull nearly any piece of paper off
the shelf and turn it into a cyanotype...any piece of cloth, metal, wood,
leather, etc. for that matter. I spent over 3 weeks of precious work time
trying to find the right paper, manipulate it to the right pH with that
formula--nonsense I say :-)


-----Original Message-----
From: Loris Medici []
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 12:58 AM
Subject: RE: Blue-Black Cyanotype & Luster

#1: Sorry, I know nothing about black toning Cyanotypes.

#2: There are people making inkjet prints on fine-art paper (like
Somerset Velvet) using 3rd party pigmented inks, and they use
polyurethane wood finish such as "Hydrocote Polyshield Gloss" to extend
the Dmax of their prints from 1.6 to 2.1. The polyurethane is applied on
paper using a #30 meyer rod (#30 means that the coating thickness will
be around 30mils = 0.03" ~= 0.76mm). This would probably work for
alt-process prints too.

You get good Dmax with "single coated" classic Cyanotype!? Or do you
double coat? Have you tried New Cyanotype?


-----Original Message-----
From: D. Mark Andrews []
Sent: 04 Ekim 2005 Salư 07:02
Subject: RE: Blue-Black Cyanotype & Luster

Trying this message once again. Can it be that this list can generate
over 100 messages a day when flailing on a colleague, but nothing for
toning cyanotypes :-)

I'm trying to achieve a particular look with some cyanotypes I'm working
on and was wondering if anyone on the list can offer some assistance:

#1: I would like my final prints to be a very dark blue-black, similar
to platinum over cyanotope. I would rather not deal with the platinum
step so was wondering if there were any other options. I found some
recipes for a Black toner in both PF and James' Book of Alternative
Photographic Processes, but can't find any examples to judge whether it
is the look I'm after. Is it possible to achieve a deep blue-black with
a black toner?

#2: I would also like to get a luster on my final image. Has anyone
tried waxing or using any other substance to bring a sheen to a

For reference, I'm getting great results (deep blue, good D-Max) using
the traditional formula at 2 parts A to 1 part B.

Received on Tue Oct 4 07:54:23 2005

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