Re: Dry-mounting gum prints & gatorboard

From: Gawain Mead Weaver ^lt;[email protected]>
Date: 05/05/05-08:07:02 AM Z
Message-id: <aa8faeaa3407.aa3407aa8fae@nyu.edu>

Fome-cor has a polystyrene core and cannot be considered truly
archival, even in it's "acid-free" version, which is just a calcium
carbonate buffered facing paper version of the regular stuff. The main
problem is with the polystyrene anyways in terms of long term
preservation. I've found that the acid-free Fome-cor has a tendency to
warp after dry mounting alot more than the normal stuff, probably
another reason framer's don't use it so much. If you want archival and
rigid, you could dry mount museum board to gator board. Better to just
stick with 100% rag museum board though. Simple and proven. IMHO.

gawain

----- Original Message -----
From: kris <kris@eq-photo.com>
Date: Thursday, May 5, 2005 9:27 am
Subject: Re: Dry-mounting gum prints & gatorboard

> there's a slightly more expensive but MUCH more durable foam core-
> like
> substrate called gatorboard (i believe).
> most mounting shops have it, and the nice thing is it has a white
> OR
> black core to it... unless things have changed, i believe foamcore
> is
> only white (and you have to tape up the edges if you want anything
> else... uck!)
>
> ok, there are two other nice things about it: it's light (the same
> as
> foamcore, i think), and you can pretty much step on it without so
> much
> as a ding (tho i wouldn't recommend it)....
>
> anyone else used the stuff?
> kris
>
>
> Christina Z. Anderson wrote:
> > Boy, Eric, I, too, have had a snafu with a frame shop as
> Katharine did.
> > I picked up a $400 order that had to go out to a show overnight,
> and the
> > frame shop had chosen the cream colored mat board I had
> indicated, but
> > switched it to a BUMPY cream colored non archival one, that ugly
> > son-of-a-gun stuff that looks like it came from Walmart. I
> could not do
> > anything about it because I was under a time crunch, so I let it
> go, but
> > never again. Now I communicate. Plus I switched shops. AND had
> to
> > remount all the prints when they were returned from the show. It
> was an
> > expensive lesson.
> >
> > I personally do not mount on foam core, but on archival mat
> board, the same
> > as is on the front of my print as a window mat. But foam core
> nowadays is
> > acid free so they say, and is considerered archival so they say,
> too.>
> > The problem with foam core is it dings easily, and it looks
> cheapish (not
> > from the front, which is hidden). Plus it adds a lot of extra
> depth when
> > you have to store the images in archival boxes. I usually mount
> on the
> > archival mat board and then use a layer of foam core in the back
> of the
> > frame for added thickness, and when I unframe them the foam core
> is easily
> > put in another box and/or replaced.
> > Chris
> >
> > From: "Eric Neilsen" <e.neilsen@worldnet.att.net>
> >
> >> Here is a novel idea, tell them what to do. You should not let
> a
> >> frame shop
> >> do something for you, you should expect them to follow your
> instructions.>> If they change the order; they redo it and pay for
> any damage to your art
> >> work as a result of their failure to do as requested. Just
> like the
> >> correct
> >> viewing detail, it is up to the artist to know what to do with
> their
> >> work to
> >> get it framed. You can't rely on someone else to know what
> your work
> >> requires. If you discuss your type of art work with them, you
> should
> >> be able
> >> to tell if they know what they are doing. After all you
> should, it is
> >> your
> >> work on the line.
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
Received on Thu May 5 08:07:12 2005

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