Re: New Cyanotype

From: Thom Mitchell ^lt;[email protected]>
Date: 05/15/04-06:10:38 AM Z
Message-id: <009d01c43a75$abfb1500$>

I have a few simple questions. Where can you find the formula for the new
cyanotype? I'll be making in camera negs for the process and I do not have a
densitometer, so how thick or thin should ones negs be to make a decent
image on cyanotype. Normal exposure and processing? 1 stop over-exposed? 2
stops over-exposed? 1 stop under-exposed? etc. I ask this merely to
ascertain a starting point from which to begin my own testing and possibly
shorten the cycle of frustration. Thanks, Thom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Wainer" <>
To: <>
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: New Cyanotype

Hi Loris-

I use the New Cyanotype formula exclusively.

You will notice that there is very little "bleeding" in the wash when
compared to traditional formulas.

I have found that it is indeed paper sensitive, but that can be overcome by
the addition of a few drops of 40% citric acid. I use 3-4 drops per ml of
sensitizer and have been able to print on anything from Stonehenge to
butcher's paper.

You will also find that it has a longer scale than traditional formulas and
that the scale is further increased with the addition of citric acid to help
with the paper.

As for Dmax, depending upon my negatives and length of exposure, I have
gotten every thing from a pale baby blue to a very dark Royal Blue. I
couldn't get that deep of a blue even with 2 coats of a traditional formula.

With respect to the Ammonium Irom Oxalate, I had some that I assume went
bad; it turned from a greenish color to a light brown and turned the mixture
blue when made.

Hope this helps,


----- Original Message -----
From: "Loris Medici" <>
To: <>
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 5:37 AM
Subject: New Cyanotype

> I will prepare/mix "new cyanotype" this weekend. Any remarks on what can
> go wrong or what should I pay attention - from those who did it before -
> will be appreciated. BTW, I keep Ammonium Iron(III) Oxalate in B&S's
> original packaging and not in dark. Is there any possibility of
> "fogging" (because it says light sensitive)? I would also like to
> receive remarks/suggestions (about paper, printing/exposing,
> processing/clearing ect.) from people who had made the transition from
> classic cyanotype to new cyanotype. I'm expecting a better dmax compared
> to double coated classic cyanotype - do you find this possible?
> TIA,
> Loris.
Received on Sat May 15 06:11:33 2004

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