Fwd: Gum Tri-Color Yellow

From: Tom Ferguson ^lt;tomf2468@pipeline.com>
Date: 06/04/04-08:44:46 AM Z
Message-id: <B9068866-B635-11D8-9A91-000502D77DA6@pipeline.com>

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Tom Ferguson <tomf2468@pipeline.com>
> Date: Fri Jun 4, 2004 7:35:57 AM US/Pacific
> To: "Christina Z. Anderson" <zphoto@uslink.net>
> Subject: Re: Gum Tri-Color Yellow
> Been there, Done that :-(
> I did increase the amount of paint (Rowney's "Permanent Yellow #664"
> Quinophthalone Yellow PY138). I got even less distinct "steps" and a
> bit of staining. I really think I need a different pigment, or just
> accept tri-color gum as "quad-color" (always 4 coats).
> Thanks for the info that process looking yellows will have somewhat
> less defined steps. I've printed earthy yellows before, but never with
> this process (bright cartoon) yellow.
> I figure by Tuesday I will have the Daniel Smith package (I paid for
> fast shipping) and time to "play". I will report my findings!
> Thanks to all.
> On Friday, June 4, 2004, at 05:08 AM, Christina Z. Anderson wrote:
>> Katharine said, large snip:
>>> I agree
>>> that a change of pigment is probably a better solution than adding
>>> more
>>> of the light pigment. Trying to make a light or weak pigment dark or
>>> strong by adding more of it reminds me of the story about the guy who
>>> owned a small factory and was losing money on every item he made; his
>>> solution to the problem: "heck, I'll just increase sales and make it
>>> up
>>> in volume." Of course if you're using too little pigment to start
>>> with
>> <snip>
>> Tom,
>> Of course, this is the assumption I am making, that you're not
>> using
>> enough pigment, or I wouldn't have suggested it.
>> I would go ahead and double your pigment; what do you have to
>> lose
>> except one piece of paper? I'd certainly try it before running out
>> and
>> buying more pigment. That way you find out real quick if it is your
>> practice or the pigment that is the problem.
>> I use nickel titanate and cad yellow and another one I can't
>> remember
>> the name aureolin or gamboge, but a permanent one), all usually M.
>> Graham or
>> Daniel Smith and sometimes W+N (using up old supply). I always start
>> with
>> the same mix, regardless, knowing that if I use the nickel titanate I
>> get a
>> more muted yellow brown than with cadmium. I keep stocks of all on
>> hand.
>> Yellow ochre, too.
>> To give you an idea of how much of any yellow I use:
>> a 14ml tube squirted into a 50ml bottle of gum stock.
>> 2 tsp of this mix + 2 tsp gum + 3 tsp water +1 tsp saturated am di
>> (which
>> coats about 8 or so 8x10's).
>> On top of the cyanotype layer when exposed the color I get is a
>> pea
>> soupy green.
>> The other reason I suggested an increase of pigment is because
>> of your
>> complaint that you had undefined steps...I find my yellow steps don't
>> appear
>> as defined as the other pigments in general, due to the paleness of
>> yellow,
>> but nevertheless, if you want contrast to increase, add more pigment.
>> The other thing about yellow that is hard, is that you can be
>> deceived
>> into thinking you have a lot of pigment in the mix by the yellow of
>> the
>> dichromate. With magenta and blue, it just makes you think your
>> color is
>> more red-orange or green-blue, respectively, than normal, not that it
>> is
>> more saturated.
>> Chris
> --------------
> Tom Ferguson
> http://www.ferguson-photo-design.com
Tom Ferguson
Received on Fri Jun 4 08:47:46 2004

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