Well, the first thought is to check "The World Journal of Post-Factory
Photography" (WJP-FP), issues #3 & 6.
Also, purchase a respirator with a cartridge which will filter out the
ammonia. Mine was bought through Grainger and is a North Z550030M. I
used the cartridge 75SC. If you are going to use it solely for ammonia,
you should purchase a cartridge specialized just for ammonia. The 75SC
cartridge is for mixed vapors.
Rapid fix ought not be used.
The time it takes to 'plate' the image varies partly due to temperature
and the amount of plating to be done.
Various manufacturers create different paper emulsions and these cause
the image to be plated either gold or silver.
I believe the Mitsubishi paper is the only one to go silver. The others
RC papers work the best.
Do not use the solution more than once.
I use more than recommended.
Constant agitation is essential.
I allow them to air dry.
On Tuesday, February 17, 2004, at 06:10 PM, Jenn Procacci wrote:
> Has anyone ever used Rockland Halo Chrome? It's a kind of
> toner that is supposed to "fuse the silver crystals together
> to create a metallic appearence for B/W prints". The process
> is essentially : bleach the image until just a yellow ghost
> image remains, wash it for a minute, then immerse in
> the "silvering solution" until the "silvering process" is
> complete (no time is given for this, the directions are real
> sketchy) then fix. Everything went alright until the
> fixing...then I would loss all the detail in my image. I
> think this may be due to the fact that I was using rapid
> fix. Also, the images that it did turn metallic (it seemed
> to exhaust extremely quickly) went gold, not silver.
> Any thoughts?
> Thanks, Jenn
Received on Tue Feb 17 22:24:53 2004
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