Re: favorite gum pigment colors

From: [email protected]
Date: 12/13/05-08:50:55 PM Z
Message-id: <2b2.24b3870.30d0e28f@aol.com>

thanks Chris,

I'll look forward to hearing of your research on the palettes. Meanwhile, I
think I'll have a glass of whine.

Best Wishes,
Mark Nelson
Precision Digital Negatives
PDNPrint Forum @ Yahoo Groups
www.MarkINelsonPhoto.com

In a message dated 12/13/05 11:17:31 AM, zphoto@montana.net writes:

> Hi Mark,
> I love whining, especially if it's a full bodied red...
>
> Colors in my list are for tricolor and are essentially transparent. That's
> why you don't see cadmiums on there.  In my complete list I have what is
> transparent and what is semi-transparent and the direction the color leans
> (e.g.green or orange biased yellows, orange or bluer reds).
>
> I have included in the complete list only those pigments that Page, Wilcox,
> and Handprint seem to agree are lightfast.  This took a lot of back and
> forth research and made me eliminate some colors that Page says are OK but
> Handprint doesn't, for instance.
>
> I am planning on doing some side by side tricolors of different tonal
> palettes before next semester--for instance, a true magenta and true cyan
> and primary yellow, or an earth palette of the opaques like venetian red,
> yellow ochre, and cerulean...they'll produce different looking prints (as
> Tom Sobota's masks show) but my guess is that any tricolor will still look
> "normal", providing you print the red with the green negative, the yellow
> with the blue, and the blue with the red (I just had to say that because I
> have to get used to saying things that are obvious to me but won't be to a
> class next semester:)).
>
> When I have used the scarlet type reds, they make for a pretty brilliant
> red!  I am testing the Old Holland Vermillion for that reason and also
> because of the "romance" surrounding its being the only brand using this
> pigment (as well as PY138).
>
> On my class supply list they are to buy M. Graham PV19 Quinacridone Rose,
> Phthalo blue, and Azo yellow, and a black and a burnt sienna.  At MSU for
> $4.55 a tube they won't spend an arm and a leg.
>
> For duotones you want  black and a brown for instance.  Over cyano
> duotone...I'd suggest a brown.
>
> Daniel Smith puts out some wonderful quinacridones that are brilliant,
> transparent, and earth toned--q. gold, q. burnt sienna, etc.
>
> If I lived in Europe I'd probably use Maimeri brand because it is cheap.
>
> All of this said, right now in my "dark"room I have easily 10 different
> yellows and 10 different reds, only 5 blues (thalo, ultra, indanthrone,
> cobalt, and cerulean).  I have used all of them, but don't usually use the
> cadmiums anymore nor nickel titanate yellow which is somewhat too green and
> chalky in my opinion nor cerulean. Cobalt is too expensive and weak, but it
> is a beautiful color. That said, i guarantee you there is a gum printer out
> there that loves these colors.  Somewhere.
>
> And, of course, I have cyano solution always mixed...I'll print a layer of
> cyano on top of a finished gum sometimes.  It's fun to see what you get with
> that.
>
> As far as whether staining or nonstaining, I don't pay attention to that
> anymore because with my practice of sizing and using a thicker gum, it is no
> longer a problem. I pay attention to the balance of the saturation of the
> colors moreso.  Quinacridones are gorgeously saturated and transparent but
> you do have to size if you use a loaded gum/pigment mix with them.
> Chris
>
Received on Tue Dec 13 20:51:20 2005

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