Re: Reversal processing, user's tips

From: Ian Greant ^lt;>
Date: 03/12/04-05:38:14 PM Z
Message-id: <>

well! Silly me, spend all that money on an expensive light meter and I'd
never thought to use it in the darkroom.. some of us think inside the box
too much ;)

Everyone who contributed thanks, but a big thank you to Marek for taking
the time to type all this out... Looks like I'll try the reversal method.

Ian Greant

>To all interested:
>Here are a few tips from my practice of enlarging negatives by reversal
>method ( I use APH or APHS film from Freestyle):
>1. Exposure. I use a light meter to set the enlarger. I set the aperture
>of the enlarger lens without film to EV reading of 2.3. This way I am
>consistent with exposure for different film/ negative sizes. This is also
>important for my flash exposure. 10-40 seconds is a good guess for initial
>2. Flash exposure (with no negative). I already have a light set in step
>1. I slip an 8xND filer in front of the lens and expose for 10 to 15
>seconds. I would use 10 to 12 seconds for a palladium printing and closer
>to 15 seconds for a gum over palladium as I like to have somewhat less
>dense shadows.
> You could step down the lens to have the same effect, but I have found
>that this is most of the time not possible.
>3. Developer: Dektol 1:2 for 4 minutes
>4. Chromate bleach. My experience is that the sulfuric acid depletes in
>the batch before the dichromate, so I add 50% more sulfuric acid. No big
>deal, but I can get more mileage from it.
>5. Wash after the chromate batch. I use two trays of distilled water. I
>let it soak in the first tray for 5 minutes and then second tray for 5
>minutes. I would change the water maybe every 5-10 negatives.
>6. Wipe the negative clean. This is very important in my practice.
>Chromate bleach leaves a residue of silver sulfate on the surface of the
>film. If not completely removed it will result in an incresed density and
>spots from handling. Easiest way to remove it is to place the film on a
>rigid surface (glass) under running water and wipe the surface clean. I
>use my hand. The film is hardened at this point and does not scratch
>easily. I either wash it or use sulfite bath at this point.
>The rest of the processing is as described in the literature.
>Happy printing.
>Marek, Houston
Received on Fri Mar 12 16:27:38 2004

This archive was generated by hypermail 2.1.8 : 04/01/04-02:02:05 PM Z CST