Re: Ferric Ammonium Oxalate + Potassium Chloroplatinite Solution Shelf Life

From: altprinter ^lt;>
Date: 06/16/04-03:26:41 PM Z
Message-id: <>


I think mixing AFO and platinum or palladium will have a limited life time unless you plan to use it very quickly; or at the very least you may not get consistent results over a period of time once the chemicals are mixed. Also having the ability to vary the number of drops of metal on a per print basis will give you a creative option in your printing and allow you to fine tune your results which will be partially paper dependent (even though theoretically working with a digital negative would provide you with a consistent repeatable workflow.)

You may wish to try the method for making Satisa+ prints as described at Bostick and Sullivan in an article by Dick Sullivan.

FWIW, kallitypes are easier to make (IMO), look better (IMO), and can be indistinguishable from a palladium print.

I never felt that the Satistypes matched the lushness one might seek in a palladium print, however it is a fun process to try.

My 2 cents,

Don Bryant

P.S. I haven't tried Marek's method but I think his method will work better than mixing the AFO and metal. Also when you wet develop with glycerine as mentioned in the B&S article you don't have to tape the paper to the surface you are developing on, just pour a few drops of virgin glycerine on the developing surface and then lay the paper down. The thought just occured to me that you may be able to brush develop with Marek's method also.

-----Original Message-----
From: Loris Medici <>
Sent: Jun 16, 2004 4:38 PM
Subject: Ferric Ammonium Oxalate + Potassium Chloroplatinite Solution Shelf Life

Hi Rajul,

--- Rajul Iyer <> wrote:
> Loris,
> Could you explain why you would use the
> chloroplatinate instead of the
> chloroplatinite for doing Satista prints? In my

Oops! Sorry, that was a typo. What I have is
"Potassium Chloroplatinite Sol. No. 3".

> recent experiments with
> Satista, Ifound that whereas chloroplatinite (one
> drop of a 5% solution)
> worked fine with about 25-30 drops of ~25% FAO for
> an ~8x10" print, finding

This exacly the same dilution as Marek says "it works
- but giving much browner prints" in his article.

> a way to enhance the contrast would would be a
> worthwhile handle to have.

So you're saying the prints were low contrast? Could
it be that your negative density was not adequate?
Actually I plan to design a curve from scratch (I use
digital negatives) for "my working parameters" and to
never change these parameters - which are: the formula
of the sensitizer and gold toning time (if I decide to
do it - using one shot fresh toner).

> Also, using vellum instead of pictorico OHP
> transparencies as digineg medium
> can effectively reduce contrast when required.

Well I certainly would like to do it if I could find
it in Istanbul. I yet have to meet one person who
knows what "vellum" is? When I ask about it all I got
is empty looks. Can you suggest where I can find
vellum (maybe there are businesses which exclusively
use vellum papers, maybe they just don't call it
"vellum" here). To what vellum resemble?

Using vellum as negative sounds nice. I guess vellum
paper is much chaper compared to Pictorico or other
inkjet transparency media. Also maybe the paper will
have more dot gain than inkjet transparency - that
would be nice because: I have problems with pizza
wheels making marks on my negatives and when one
inspect the prints with a loupe they reveal their
"inkjet made" character. A little bit more dot gain
can cure these negative elements in my printing.

... long pause ... OK I have made some research: there
are vellum papers (it's for plotters I presume) by HP
and EPSON. Will these work with alt. processes? I
often see "non solvent" remarks about these papers -
do vellum papers from HP or Epson incorporate
chemicals and/or fillers/coatings and/or whatnot which
can prevent successful alt. process prints?

Do you have any scans of your Satista prints/trials

To all: I repeat my question - Do you think the
Satista sensitizer will keep well? I plan to mix
around 100 - 200ml because I don't want to fiddle with
drops before every coating session.

Another question is: I plan to sensitize in batches -
30 40 papers at a time. What do you suggest for
keeping the paper? Can I keep these in a box face to
back without separator material?

Received on Wed Jun 16 15:27:11 2004

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