Re: Liquitex

From: pete ^lt;[email protected]>
Date: 04/23/04-03:19:51 AM Z
Message-id: <>


>> * Black ? ? [mars} 1+6 one coat
>> * Yellow ? [cad lemon] 1+7 two coats
>> * Magenta [acra ] 1+8 two coats
>> * Cyan ? ? [phalo blue] 1+15 one or two coats
>> * Sometimes a Complementary further 1+8 one or
>> two coats of burnt umber
>> or emerald green using the black printer.
> Thanks! I can see that Hellena uses a different yellow
> than yours; she uses the transparent one (Yellow Light
> Hansa), you use the 830 I presume. (Actually it
> doesn't matter anymore because I ordered the colors
> from DickBlick)

It doesn't matter, as you will define your own road, as the Chinese say
there many paths to heaven.

I print Mars black first but as a light grey this helps me to see the image
progress as I put down the other colours

Next I print the cad lemon, which is an opaque yellow, but nice and strong
and clean this colour does obscure the first coat a little, but this does
not matter, as I will return to the black later.

Next the magenta

Next the cyan. You do have to be careful with the Phalo blue it has high
tinting strength and can stain the yuppo not an easy thing to do. If in
doubt take it down to 1to 20 or 25 yes it is that powerful!

Finally print the black to pull the print together a wonderful moment.

Often I do not use a black but a complementary colour for instance if the
black is slightly red I will print a emerald green or conversely if the
black is going blue green I would use burnt umber or even burnt sienna.

This why a colour wheel is so useful Painters have used this complementary
trick for years

> Ok, thanks for the warning. Time to struggle now... (I
> Have ordered casein too; will try Guido's variation to
> Your technique)
Not a struggle a delight

Received on Fri Apr 23 03:08:44 2004

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